December 8-13 Los Frailes to Punta Balandra to La Paz
We stayed three nights at Los Frailes waiting for weather and finally left at early in the morning to take advantage of calm wind and water. The anchorage was still in the day and the wind would whip up in the afternoon, making swimming or snorkeling difficult. I jumped into the water only once to take a much needed hair wash, but was uncomfortable with current and was glad for the painter on the tender to hang on to. The nights were bouncy too and we spun about on our anchor. Ksasa was supposed to meet us at Los Frailes but had a rough time pounding against it and turned about, with a mind to head for Mazatlan instead.
So we rested and read, and I did some needlework and wrote about our trek down the West Coast of the Baja. We did a few chores around the boat and Lyle defrosted the refrigerator. The last morning we were there, we dinghied to shore on the advice of another boat anchored there (Someday Isle----my favorite boat name so far) and bought produce from a couple who brought fresh goods in their van. It was nice to see great cantaloupe, papaya, and eggs to eat with the last of the meat in the freezer.
Our last afternoon in the cockpit we were privy to a rare treat. Quite suddenly I saw a splash off our beam and assumed it was a fish jumping. But it was manta rays jumping straight up out of the water – as if they were playing. I thought they would jump into the cockpit. They were clearing the waves by a good 3 feet. What a sight!
We moved on and started out with some favorable winds and the men had decided to stop in the early afternoon in an anchorage called Balandra – that is near La Paz and is often used by its residents on weekends. It was Saturday and there were a few sailboats in the bay, and we noted local vehicles on the beach. Lyle and I dinghied to a rocky point to try some snorkeling and were rewarded with some colorful fish. We visited the local beach and Lyle ate a fish taco from the vendor and we looked at the saleable wares available out of the back of someone’s truck. The vendors really want to sell you something, and I find it tiring when they continue to try and barter, when I have shown no interest in a purchase. But that is Mexico I guess.
This was a really beautiful spot. The sand was white and clean and the beach shoaled a long way out so you could walk in the shallows barefoot and see your toes. We stopped on a beach that we thought was gravel and realized on arrival it was covered with broken coral and shells. It was a shell seekers paradise, it was calm and warm. When I swam off the side of the boat this time, I not only could see my feet under me but the anchor and chain lying on the bottom of the ocean. It was aquamarine and pristine. I noted this spot, as it would be a good first run out of La Paz with our guests. This was the Mexico that I thought I would visit in my mind’s eye and it reminded me of the best of the Caribbean.
And then we moved on to La Paz. We entered through a long channel and took a berth at the marina. It is my favorite Mexican city so far. There is a long malecon that extends along the waterfront, and there is pride in the buildings and landscaping. This is truly a Mexican city and few people speak English, making me drag out my very poor Spanish to get what I need. It is the capital of the Baja California Sur. The marina is reasonably priced and the people are helpful, and services are available. A group of cruisers have formed Club Cruceros and they meet, update weather and services and help each other out. And the beautiful cruising ground awaits us.
We plan to be at anchor at Isla Espiritu Santo for Christmas, so will be out of touch again for a while.
We stayed three nights at Los Frailes waiting for weather and finally left at early in the morning to take advantage of calm wind and water. The anchorage was still in the day and the wind would whip up in the afternoon, making swimming or snorkeling difficult. I jumped into the water only once to take a much needed hair wash, but was uncomfortable with current and was glad for the painter on the tender to hang on to. The nights were bouncy too and we spun about on our anchor. Ksasa was supposed to meet us at Los Frailes but had a rough time pounding against it and turned about, with a mind to head for Mazatlan instead.
So we rested and read, and I did some needlework and wrote about our trek down the West Coast of the Baja. We did a few chores around the boat and Lyle defrosted the refrigerator. The last morning we were there, we dinghied to shore on the advice of another boat anchored there (Someday Isle----my favorite boat name so far) and bought produce from a couple who brought fresh goods in their van. It was nice to see great cantaloupe, papaya, and eggs to eat with the last of the meat in the freezer.
Our last afternoon in the cockpit we were privy to a rare treat. Quite suddenly I saw a splash off our beam and assumed it was a fish jumping. But it was manta rays jumping straight up out of the water – as if they were playing. I thought they would jump into the cockpit. They were clearing the waves by a good 3 feet. What a sight!
We moved on and started out with some favorable winds and the men had decided to stop in the early afternoon in an anchorage called Balandra – that is near La Paz and is often used by its residents on weekends. It was Saturday and there were a few sailboats in the bay, and we noted local vehicles on the beach. Lyle and I dinghied to a rocky point to try some snorkeling and were rewarded with some colorful fish. We visited the local beach and Lyle ate a fish taco from the vendor and we looked at the saleable wares available out of the back of someone’s truck. The vendors really want to sell you something, and I find it tiring when they continue to try and barter, when I have shown no interest in a purchase. But that is Mexico I guess.
This was a really beautiful spot. The sand was white and clean and the beach shoaled a long way out so you could walk in the shallows barefoot and see your toes. We stopped on a beach that we thought was gravel and realized on arrival it was covered with broken coral and shells. It was a shell seekers paradise, it was calm and warm. When I swam off the side of the boat this time, I not only could see my feet under me but the anchor and chain lying on the bottom of the ocean. It was aquamarine and pristine. I noted this spot, as it would be a good first run out of La Paz with our guests. This was the Mexico that I thought I would visit in my mind’s eye and it reminded me of the best of the Caribbean.
And then we moved on to La Paz. We entered through a long channel and took a berth at the marina. It is my favorite Mexican city so far. There is a long malecon that extends along the waterfront, and there is pride in the buildings and landscaping. This is truly a Mexican city and few people speak English, making me drag out my very poor Spanish to get what I need. It is the capital of the Baja California Sur. The marina is reasonably priced and the people are helpful, and services are available. A group of cruisers have formed Club Cruceros and they meet, update weather and services and help each other out. And the beautiful cruising ground awaits us.
We plan to be at anchor at Isla Espiritu Santo for Christmas, so will be out of touch again for a while.